Fashion may not be the main word that comes to your mind in conjunction with politics, but we all know that the way politicians present themselves may reveal a lot about their power and the messages they want to deliver to their audiences.
On 30th January there was a perfect example of the link between politics - or maybe protest - and fashion during US President Donald Trump's State of the Union Speech at the U.S. House of Representatives in Washington, DC.
The Democratic Women's Working Group and many members of the Congress, including House of Representatives Minority Leader Nancy Pelosi opted for black attire in support of the #MeToo movement and the anti-harassment initiative Time's Up. Pelosi also wore a Time's Up pin, while Senators Bernie Sanders, Joe Manchin, and Chuck Schumer donned purple ribbons for opioid awareness.
FLOTUS Melania Trump arrived in a white pantsuit that left many wondering if her style choice was a reaction to the all-black looks surrounding her or a nod to the suffragettes, who knows. After all, she may have even been showing her disapproval by pledging support to non-American designers (the suit was by French design house Christian Dior, her white silk blouse was from Italian label Dolce & Gabbana and the nude heels by Christian Louboutin).
The most striking choice was provided by Members of the CBC (Congressional Black Caucus) who wore brightly colored yellow, green, black and red kente cloth matched with all-black clothing.
Their sartorial choice was actually a protest against Trump's racist statement in January in which he referred to Africa and Haiti as "sh*thole countries", urging more immigration from Norway.
When during his speech Trump tried to claim credit for lowered rates of unemployment in African-American communities, members of the Congressional Black Caucus sat stone-faced or glanced downward making a silent sartorial statement of protest.
Kente cloth is woven in narrow strips sewn together and is characterised by striking colours. Some of the motifs of this traditional cloth are also used symbolically to hint for example at specific things such as resistance against foreign military domination.
Throughout the decades, Kente has inspired many creative minds: Ghanaian artist El Anatsui reinvents in his pieces made with found materials such as aluminum caps and plastic seals the West African traditions of strip-woven textiles, transforming the kente technique developed by the weavers of the Akan and Ewe communities in his native Ghana. Kente cloth has a visually compelling power that has often inspired fashion designers.
The 55 scarves for the members were created - at the request of LaDavia Drane Esq., former Clinton's Director of African-American Outreach, and Dr. Kwamme Anderson, former VP of Congressional Black Caucus Foundation - by fashion designer Titi Wreh. A Liberian immigrant herself who arrived in the States in the mid-'80s to study, Wreh now owns her shop Chez Kevito, in Takoma Park, Maryland, just outside Washington, DC.
Wreh hid in the scarf colours different meanings: black stands for maturation and spiritual energy; blue for peacefulness, harmony and love; green for vegetation, planting, harvesting, growth and spiritual renewal; pink for the female essence of life and red for political and spiritual moods - just to mention a few colours (you can read more on her site).
Together with their kente scarves some members also donned red pins with the name "Recy" (ordered by Bonnie Watson Coleman's office), in memory of 97-year-old Recy Taylor of Alabama. Taylor was gang raped in 1944 by six white men who were never condemned.
She died last December, but her story, told in a documentary by Nancy Buirski, was highlighted in January during Oprah Winfrey's #TimesUp speech at the Golden Globes.
This story shows how, just like the pen is mightier than the sword, silence can be more powerful than loud speeches, while a traditional textile can say more than many designer clothes.
Hopefully, there will be more of such sartorial protests on the New York womenswear runways starting next week.
As for Trump, he should be grateful the members opted for something discreet made with traditional cloth, after all, they may gone for a more Pop Art approach with JCDC's S/S 2009 Obama dress. Oh well, it will be for another occasion. In the meantime, you can join the protest by purchasing Titi Wreh's scarf from her Etsy store.
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