It is always exciting to follow the career of different designers and see what they are up to a few months after you interviewed them. The last time Irenebrination's readers met Samuel Gassmann he was a cufflink designer.
The good news is that he is still creating arty, architectural and poetical cufflinks, but he has added to his portfolio a lovely product - literally. Gassmann has indeed come up with a design that celebrates love - wedding bands.
Nothing is what is seems though in Gassman's world and, if his cufflinks hide multiple stories and meanings, his "Double" wedding rings conceal a secret symbolism: they can be opened but can't separate, forming a flat figure eight - the symbol of infinity and eternity. In this intimate space hidden inside the bands Gassmann conceals engravings and stones only known to the wearers.
Available in a selection of materials - yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, platinum (and in two sizes 2 and 3 mm) - the bands are sold exclusively at Colette in Paris. Looks like Paris is, after all, still the city of love.
Can you please introduce this new passion - jewellery - to our readers? What is the story behind your wedding bands?
Samuel Gassmann: Originally, it was a traditional piece of jewellery that first emerged during the Renaissance. The ring, unearthed on one of the browsing expeditions I am so fond of, instantly piqued my curiosity. No sooner encountered than adopted, the ring inspired me to write a new history for an object that would be dedicated, this time around, to the celebration of love, driven, as always, by a passion to rediscover the forms and uses of long ago, measured anew by the yardstick of today's desires. I love this item because it corresponds to the idea that I have of luxury: discreet and for oneself. My approach in making this design is the same I apply to my collections of cufflinks.
How did you decide to move onto such a unique piece of jewellery, and did you have to study/research the subject for a while before setting down to work on such a piece?
Samuel Gassmann: Everything started because I got married last May. My wife, Donatienne had in mind a very clear and precise idea for the wedding band she wanted - a wedding band that was worn in her family for a long time. So we started our researches at the end 2013. We found my own wedding band in a flea market - it was perfect at the first fitting, it was like a sign. That's how the adventure began! From the idea to the design it took me one year and a half to be able to commercialize this item since it is actually quite hard to make, and bring to it my personal touch with the option to add diamonds inside the ring.
There are always multiple stories and meanings behind your cufflinks, what's the symbolism in the wedding bands?
Samuel Gassmann: Infinity. Originally, the wedding ring has a religious significance: a symbol, that of two people joined forever, made one by the grace of the invisible element that unites them.
In how many versions and in which metals is the wedding band ring available and what made you opt for such metals?
Samuel Gassmann: The wedding bands are available in rose/white and yellow gold with one/three or seven diamonds. On the other parts of the rings it is possible to engrave names, a word, a short sentence or a date. After working for 5 years on bronze and silver only, it's refreshing to be able to move onto precious metals and it's amazing to be able to do so via wedding bands.
How long does it take you to customise the designs with special dates, names, letters or messages?
Samuel Gassmann: People will have to be a bit patient because it takes a few days to customise the pieces inside, from a week to 10 days. As I said, it is possible to engrave two names, a date, a short sentence on the same ring and the best thing is that you can keep these messages secret.
As a Paris-based French accessory designer who has also worked as a journalist, how did you feel about the recent dramatic events in Paris?
Samuel Gassmann: I was really afraid when they happened, but I was relieved to see the mobilisation of people on such an important subject for a French citizen - freedom of speech. As a designer, I expect to continue thinking and creating freely for years and years.
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