The dichotomy between the hypnagogic state, that is the transition from wakefulness to sleep, and the hypnopompic state, the state of consciousness leading out of sleep, has fascinated many psychiatrists and psychical researchers, but it's rare to hear about a textile designer, more used to be working with tangible materials, being inspired by something so intangible. Yet Finland-born and Amsterdam-based Kustaa Saksi is definitely among these rare designers.
His latest project, a 48-hour pop-up exhibition of contemporary wool tapestries at the Artifact Gallery in New York, will take visitors on a journey through pieces inspired by the hypnopompic state.
Saksi's artworks are made employing the traditional jacquard weaving technique, but using different materials including mohair and alpaca wool, cotton and synthetic materials, such as phosphate and metallic acrylic thread.
Some of his patterns are extremely complex and tell stories of surreal dreams featuring spiders and monkeys; others induce through their intricate colours, abstract patterns and psychedelic textures, the same sensory confusion of the hypnopompic state.
The tapestry pieces produced in Europe in the 17th century could be considered as woven frescoes, but Saksi's works take this traditional art to another level filtering it through the eyes and skills of a visionary artist.
In the last few years Saksi has diversified his work becoming well-known as a designer both in Finland and abroad, working on graphic design, patterns and tapestry, developing projects and campaigns for famous brands and fashion houses, including Nike, Diesel, Levi's, Adidas, Mandarina Duck, Issey Miyake and Lacoste.
In 2013, he designed a large-scale installation for the Stockholm Furniture and Light Fair Pavilion together with the Swedish architect Gert Wingårdh, consisting of as many as 15,000 A3-size papers.
The pop-up exhibition in New York will be particularly interesting since it will feature textiles, a series of serigraphs on paper, but also an audiovisual installation.
On both nights Finnish ambient pop group Husky Rescue will be producing live music for Saksi’s projected animations developed in collaboration with Amsterdam-based diverse audiovisual storytellers Circus Family.
Is this the first time you exhibit your work in New York and are you excited about this opportunity?
Kustaa Saksi: Yes it is, and I'm really excited about it. I love the location and I'm hoping my wool jacquard tapestries will warm up many New Yorkers during the cold season!
What fascinates you about the hypnopompic state?
Kustaa Saksi: The exhibition title - Hypnopompic - refers to a state of sensory confusion leading out of sleep, when the state of awakening gets mixed with the dream world into a surreal reality. It is an exceptional state of consciousness, in which one may experience the presence of, or see creatures and animals, such as spiders, monkeys and insects. Hypnopompic state has also been affiliated with visual delusions caused by migraine. These graphic patterns, designs and textures are thought to have contributed to the traditions of ornamentation, mosaic and textile as well.
What will the sound and animation installation add to your work?
Kustaa Saksi: I'm collaborating with Finnish band Husky Rescue who will perform their signature dreamy, ambient pop sounds with a video work crafted by Circus Family, an Amsterdam-based motion design practice. They've used my artworks as starting point and will expand the experience with sound and vision.
Some of your tapestries have an optical quality about them, yet they can't be pigeonholed into the Op Art category since there is also a natural and scientific component in your work highlighted in the photographs of your pieces at the Teylers Museum in Haarlem. Can you tell us more about the scientific inspiration behind your textiles and tapestries?
Kustaa Saksi: As I've been suffering from migraine myself all my life I've been very interested in what's happening in the visual cortex during the attacks. It's been fascinating to read writings of Oliver Sacks and other neurologists who try to make sense what's going on when the brain is doing tricks on us. I'm interested in visualizing these confusing states. Additionally, I wanted to bring my artworks to Teylers Museum in Haarlem – one of the most beautiful natural history museum combining art and science. I loved how their scientific inspiration was communicating with the ancient space.
Some of your pieces seem to be inspired by different art movements: which artists/movements inspire you?
Kustaa Saksi: I've been influenced by different cultures, their stereotypes and visual language, and I like to play around with them. Blending Art Deco with Orientalism, Optical Art or Psychedelia, Futurism or Folk Art feels very natural to me in my visual storytelling.
Do you have a favourite material or yarn for your tapestries or have you discovered a yarn that you fell in love with?
Kustaa Saksi: Actually, I fell in love with mixing traditional materials like alpaca, mohair and merino wool with synthetic hi-tech yarns made of nylon, viscose, lurex, metal and phosphoric yarns. These experiments lead to very surprising results and create interesting surfaces.
You have so far worked with many popular brands and fashion houses: which is the most challenging aspects in a collaboration with a famous brand?
Kustaa Saksi: When working for a brand you have to understand what they stand for. I like the challenge of entering their worlds and combine that with my own style.
Where would you like to take your exhibition next?
Kustaa Saksi: The next stop will be in February at CentroCentro in Madrid during ARCO International Contemporary Art Fair.
"Kustaa Saksi: Hypnopompic", is at Artifact Gallery at 84 Orchard Street on the Lower East Side, New York, on 5th and 6th December 2013. A performance and reception will be hosted both nights from 6:30-9:30pm. Live performance art by Husky Rescue, Circus Family and Kustaa Saksi will begin roughly at 8:00pm.
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