The way the human brain works fascinates many scientists, but also fashion designers: Christopher Kane's Autumn/Winter 2013-14 collection features indeed embroidered images and prints of brain scans.
Barcelona-based artists Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet pushed things even further by combining technology and craft and offering an innovative interpretation of the brain activity.
With the help of researcher Sebastian Mealla they developed the Knitic project, focused on converting brainwaves into a knitted pattern - in short neuro-knitting.
The process sounds pretty complicated, but a video clearly shows how it works: the brain impulses of a person listening to music (the "Goldberg Variations" by Johann Bach in this case) are recorded via a non-invasive EEG headset onto a computer.
The brainwaves are then converted into a graph that is later on transformed into a pattern reproduced on a scarf by a knitting machine controlled by the Knitic software. The designers measured relaxation, excitement, and cognitive load, translating these states into stitches and patterns.
The artist and design duo has also been working on art and craft workshops about hacking your knitwear machine and developing the open source knitting machine Knitic that controls a Brother electronic knitting machine via Arduino.
Time will tell if neuro knitting has the potential of turning into a fashion craze, but these developments in knitting and technology have further implications: modern technology influences the way the human brain works, but with such systems the brain could influence technology instead, while new possibilities may also open up when it comes to generative design and fashion.
Can you tell us more about your backgrounds?
Mar Canet: I studied digital design and electronic art for five years at ESDI in Barcelona. I have my second undergrad in computer game development from UCLAN University (Preston, UK). And currently, I'm busy finishing a master degree at Interface Cultures in Art and Design University of Linz, Austria. Since I am involved in so many exciting projects, it has taken me a bit longer to submit my final thesis, but I'm getting there. Apart from my formal education, I have a large project and research-based experience as an artist, freelancer and creative coder. For example, I have worked for 2 years in Future Lab, Ars Electronica.
Varvara Guljajeva: I have a similar background to Mar's, but in a different order: I first gained a BA in Information Technology from IT College of Estonia and then went for something more creative. I did my master in Digital Media in Germany, and, after working and teaching at Interface Cultures in Art and Design at the University of Linz, I enrolled in a PhD program at the Art and Design department of the Estonian Art Academy.
What inspired the neuro knitting project?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: We got the idea around March/April 2013 and made the pieces in June. We have been knitting and working with obsolete knitting machines for a while - since January last year to be precise. We have mainly used knitting for our art projects. We also noticed the lack of innovation in this field and, at the same time, the potential of this medium. We have always been interested in the development of technology and the possibilities it may offer in developing new trends. One day we thought that we should have made something extraordinary and crazy with knitting. Then we got an idea to connect neuroscience, human physiology and craft. Our friend Sebastián Mealla, who is a researcher at the Music Technology Group of Universitat Pompeu Fabra (Barcelona) and works multimodal Human-Computer Interaction based on brain and body signals, brought his expertise on physiological and affective computing to this project, and the role of music as a concrete example about how affective reactions to a given experience - in this case the act of listening - can be measured through electroencephalography (EEG).
Did you find it difficult to transform into patterns for the knitting machine the brain waves?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: If one is motivated and have an idea about how to do it, then everything is doable!
Which was the most difficult aspect of this project technology-wise – developing the Knitic framework/software?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: Yes, Knitic is absolutely one of the most difficult parts. We have been working on Knitic about a year, even though not full-time. It is still in its Beta version and many things need to be done. In the end, knitting machines are not so simple as one thinks.
Which offers the best solutions in knitwear, traditional machines, computers or a combination of both?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: Both, of course!
What kind of yarns do you prefer for your work?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: Natural ones first of all. We have been using a lot of wool.
Do you feel more like artists or fashion designers?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: Artists.
Do you feel that new technologies will help us developing innovative garments in the future?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: Absolutely. The main innovation in textiles is based on new technology and its availability and affordability to people.
Is there a technique you'd like to experiment with in future?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: We want to make knitting more automatized and computer controlled for the digital fabrication needs. We are also very interested in making use of human physiological data for the purpose of textile design.
If you could launch a collaboration with a scientist or an artist who would you choose?
Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet: At the moment we are working with Sebastian Mealla, who is a neuroscientist, and we would like to continue this collaboration.
All images/videos in this post courtesy of Varvara Guljajeva and Mar Canet.
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