The Academy of Art University Special that started on Tuesday closes today with Qian Xie's collection, featuring garments based on the interplay between light and shadows, a theme usually appreciated by professionals such as architects and photographers.
Fabric research is one of the key points to develop a unique and desirable collection and Academy of Art University student Qian Xie seems to know this aspect of fashion design very well.
The research for the proper fabrics she had in mind for her collection - presented at AAU's show during New York Fashion Week - took her four months and a long distance quest from her native China to California.
Yet it was worth it: the resulting collection - indirectly inspired by architecture since it moved from the ways in which natural light creates shadows in interior spaces at different times of the day – featured anvil grey latticed hide dresses or jackets and vests matched with chrome wool pants characterised by geometric silhouettes that played with notions of negative space. In some cases, Xie sprinkled crystals on grey lapin skirts and powder cashmere coatresses to add a luxurious edge to her designs.
Can you tell us more about your background?
Qian Xie: I’m from southwest China, from a city called Chongqing. I started off with a bachelor degree of law at Southwest University of Political Science and Law. After graduating, I took a job working as an assistant to the Fashion Editor at the New Woman Press in Chongqing and decided to pursue a career in fashion, enrolling in the Academy of Art University’s fashion design program. I started off with the BFA program at AAU. It was after one full year in the undergraduate program that I started to become passionate in what I was doing. After level 2, I realized I could move onto the MFA program; I started it in Spring 2009.
What's the most important thing you learnt from your years at AAU?
Qian Xie: Work hard to get what you expect. Creativity is just one of the things a designer should have, since you should also be able to turn your ideas into reality and therefore move from paper and 2D to 3D. This process requires a lot of experimenting and you can only achieve the results you want by working hard.
Who has been the greatest influence on your career choices?
Qian Xie: My instructor, Sean Moore, he was always inspiring and encouraged me to keep on thinking laterally. He taught us much more than just fashion. I also got inspired from conversations with my talented friends. The variety of their cultural and academic backgrounds had a huge impact on my designs.
Can you tell us more about your creative process?
Qian Xie: This is actually the best part of my overall design process. This procedure is even more important than the final design, because my inspirations usually come from my interest in other industries. I usually start thinking from outside the box and never lock myself into the fashion world.
How did you feel at showcasing your collection at the Academy of the Arts fashion show?
Qian Xie: I was extremely excited. All designers worked truly hard for almost half a year. Each of our garments was made with a lot of care, and we went through numerous alterations to come up with the perfect piece. It was amazing to be part of such a perfectly presented show.
Is there a designer who inspires you in your work?
Qian Xie: Maison Martin Margiela and in particular the distinctive way the fashion house approaches the various designs and how Margiela himself elevated deconstruction to an art form.
What's the theme behind your collection?
Qian Xie: I was inspired by the ways in which natural light creates shadows in white interior spaces at different times of the day. I wanted to express how, in the wintertime, when the warm light comes through from a square window and reflects on the white walls of an empty room, it creates a mood of calmness and hope. I wanted to tell my audience that no matter how fast our lives go, there's always a peaceful place to offer us stability.
What inspired the colour palette and the silhouettes?
Qian Xie: I tend to design items that come away from the body rather thans
forming it and that move from the idea of flawed perfection. I researched various ways perfection is achieved in interior design – from all white interiors to light, geometry, and negative spaces. My ideal perfection comes from light and all white surfaces. Therefore, when light comes into the room the reflection creates different tones and shadows. Depending on the time of day, the way light hits a room creates shadows that generate grey tones. From the various reflections I got my color story - white and grey. I chose not to have black because without light there is an absence of color. Geometry entered the collection via a square motif - that hints at perfection as well - and that is also evoked in the weaving technique integrated in some of the garments. The shapes are boxy but overall there is a soft angular silhouette. The sleeves are variations of bell and bishop foundations; high necklines and the addition of belts bring in geometry.
Was it difficult to find the proper fabrics and furs to play with the themes of shadows and light?
Qian Xie: Yes, it was quite difficult. The main palette implied shades of grey and white and I had a hard time looking for the right fabrics and furs that matched the main theme of the collection because of the fabric dyeing process. Light grey is not stable for color dyeing and I also had to find proper white cashmere. Most of the white cashmere comes in subtle warm tones, but I was looking for a purer white cashmere. Such fabrics are pretty rare in the current market, so I spent almost four months looking for them. Luckily, I did find them in China and in a leather store in Napa, California.
What plans do you have for the future?
Qian Xie: Currently I live in San Francisco and I just graduated in Fashion Design. I’m planning to move to New York this March. At the moment I would like to gather more working experience. I am seeking design internships or job opportunities. I believe that further design experiences would definitely take my skills to another level.
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